Quiz #1

7.1

breakwaters Constructed at the entrances to rivers, they extend into the ocean in order to stabilise river entrances and provide safe access for boating by keeping the river entrance clear of sand build-up. However, these breakwaters can act to dramatically alter patterns of erosion, transportation and deposition of sand along the coastline.

silting - will make the beaches have lower depth and may close off some beaches like fresh water en which they have a narrow opening

tidal flushing - action of saltwater entering an estuary twice a day during the high tides. It renews the salinity and nutrients to the estuary and removes artificially introduced toxins in the environment.

sea change  the phenomenon of increasing migration to, and suburbanisation of, any coast, particularly those areas outside the primary urban metropolitan centres

urban stormwater the stormwater from urban areas will go to the sea so if they are polluted then so is the sea

dredging is an excavation activity or operation usually carried out at least partly underwater, in shallow seas or fresh water areas with the purpose of gathering up bottom sediments and disposing of them at a different location. This technique is often used to keep waterways navigable.

introduced plants introduced plants are plants that aren't native to that nation and will usually take over the native population.

7.2

ground swell - a broad, deep swell or rolling of the sea, due to a distant storm or gale.

plunging waves - Break on beaches where the slope is moderately steep. Board riders like these waves because of the tubes they form

spilling waves - Break far from the shore on beaches with gentle slopes. The surf (white foam) gently rolls over the front so these waves are good for body surfing

surging waves - Occur on very steep beaches. The waves roll up the steep face rather than breaking over it. They cause erosion.

wind swell - In fluid dynamics, wind waves or, more precisely, wind-generated waves are surface waves that occur on the free surface of oceans, seas, lakes, rivers, and canals or even on small puddles and ponds. They usually result from the wind blowing over a vast enough stretch of fluid surface.wave height the height of waves

wavelength the distance between waves

fetch the distance that wind travels over the ocean to form waves

surf and swash zonethe active part of the coast in terms of erosion and deposition of sand by wave action; the surf zone is immediately adjacent to the coast and the swash zone is at the shore once the waves have broken