Year 9: The Science of Big Waves

1. Where do ocean waves come from? What gets them started?  In fluid dynamics, wind waves or, more precisely, wind-generated waves are surface waves that occur on the free surface of oceans, seas, lakes, rivers, and canals or even on small puddles and ponds. They usually result from the wind blowing over a vast enough stretch of fluid surface. Waves in the oceans can travel thousands of miles before reaching land. Wind waves range in size from small ripples to huge waves over 30 meters high. When directly being generated and affected by the local winds, a wind wave system is called a wind sea. After the wind ceases to blow, wind waves are called swell. Or, more generally, a swell consists of wind generated waves that are not—or hardly—affected by the local wind at that time. They have been generated elsewhere, or some time ago. Wind waves in the ocean are called ocean surface waves                                                        .                                                                                  Motion of a particle in a wind wave.
   A = At deep water. The orbital motion of fluid particles decreases rapidly with increasing depth below the surface.
   B = At shallow water (sea floor is now at B). The elliptical movement of a fluid particle flattens with decreasing depth.
   1 = Propagation direction.
   2 = Wave crest.
   3 = Wave trough.
2. What do you think a surfer should know about waves before they try and ride a wave while surfing? yes

1. Observe all the waves that you see and describe how they form and break. Use as many words found in the segment for you descriptions. All of the waves have some underwater reef or rock bed raising the wave higher
2. Describe how waves are formed, how they originate, and how they are measured? waves are mainly formed by the wind blowing a gale over the surface of the ocean
3. What is a maverick wave and what is special about the way it is formed? A maverick wave is formed at half moon bay in northern California and has a rock bed that if the wave comes in at a certain angle it creates the Mavericks
4. How is energy stored and transferred during wave? Energy is stored between the bottom and top of the wave and is transferred when it crashes
5. List any kind of advice given by the surfers about how to survive these “big waves.” Be respectful, get out before it crashes, only be a pro